**Copyright 2003

Remember the adage, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Keep this in mind when considering how to care for your quilt.  There are certain steps you can take to preserve your quilts, whether they are antique, vintage, or contemporary.  Beware of the following hazards, which can damage your quilt:

LIGHT  ** Light is more damaging to fabric than most people realize. A quilt’s proper home is on a bed in a room with low light.  Should you choose to hang your quilt, select a location without direct sunlight.  (See also the “Display” section below.) Artificial light will also damage fabrics.  Keep light away from your quilt as much as possible.

PESTS/CHEMICALS ** Although rodents don’t actually eat fabrics, they can cause damage to quilts when they attempt to use the fabrics for their nests. Rodents and insects prefer dark, warm, quiet places; therefore, take your quilts out of storage and air them outside on a dry, clear day, or put them on a bed to air out.  No quilt should be stored longer than six months without being aired and refolded. Never store fabric items in plastic! (The only time plastic should be used is when shipping quilts, to protect them from accidental spills from adjacent packages, or for a short period of time during a move. Be sure the quilt is wrapped in fabric first and then in plastic.) Chemicals such as perfume, oils, air pollutants, and room sprays can also damage fabrics. Keep them away from your quilts.

PROPER STORAGE ** The very best way to store your quilts is to use two sheets, or other white cotton material – muslin, for example -- and make a “quilt sandwich” with one sheet on the bottom, then the quilt, then the other sheet on top. Fold in thirds, roll gently and store. The quilt can also be folded in thirds and rolled around a cardboard tube. If you use a tube, the cardboard should be wrapped in another old sheet or muslin so the cardboard does not touch the quilt. Acid-free paper may also be used; however, keep in mind that even acid-free paper is still paper, wood-based, and deteriorates over time, much sooner than fabric.  What makes a paper acid-free is a coating which is applied to the paper.  Over time, that deteriorates.  (The exception to this is 100% rag content acid-free paper as used by museums, which is more expensive, and even it deteriorates over a few years.) The object is to keep all wood and/or wood products away from the quilt.  Should you use an acid-free box, the liner needs to be replaced every three to five years.

Should you prefer to fold your quilts and store them flat, be certain that all folds are stuffed with white cotton cloth prior to folding. (Old sheets work well.) Then fold lengthwise into thirds, and then begin folding crosswise. Quilts should be unfolded and folded in a different configuration every three to six months.  (Damage is caused to fibers when left in a creased position for months or years. This opening and refolding will protect the quilt from damaging creases forming – these creases are sometimes known as “the quilter’s cross.”)

DISPLAY ** To display your quilt, sew a 4” finished cotton sleeve on the upper back edge and thread a wooden dowel or length of PVC pipe through it. The sleeve should be an inch shorter than the quilt’s width. Rest the dowel or pipe on hooks nailed to the wall. Be certain that no part of the quilt itself touches the wood.

LAUNDERING/VACUUMING/DRY CLEANING ** I do not generally recommend dry cleaning of quilts, although there are special dry cleaners that do dry clean quilts for some museums, and these would be fine, but the normal quilt owner does not have access to these facilities. Look at your quilt carefully before laundering.  It may only need airing, and spot wet cleaning will take care of a lot of stains. Before deciding to launder your quilt, carefully vacuum it. You may find it doesn’t need washing at all. To vacuum, put a nylon hose over the suction end of the vacuum and vacuum carefully. Do not let the nozzle rest on the quilt; keep it about an inch above the surface.

Test the fabrics before laundering to see if they “bleed.”  (Retayne is a product that should stop new fabrics from bleeding.) Use a soft clean cloth and lukewarm water, padding the quilt from underneath with a clean white towel. Gently pat the quilt with the dampened cloth. If any of the fabric colors bleed, STOP.

If your quilt is fairly new, made of polyester with new polyester batting, it can be laundered in the washing machine, but DO NOT AGITATE IT.  Fill the washer, add a little bit of mild cleaning solution, be sure it is dissolved, and then put the quilt in to soak.  After spinning it dry on the gentle cycle, rinse at least two times to be certain any cleaning product has been removed.  Then it can be spun dry and tumbled in a cool dryer, then laid flat to finish drying. Never hang a wet quilt on a line; it puts too much stress on the fabrics and the thread. If you decide to launder your quilt, these directions can be followed for careful laundering of older quilts where the fabric is still in good shape.  If in doubt, contact an expert.

To launder a quilt of more delicate fabrics – cotton but without embellishments, and certainly do not use this method with silks, velvets, or unknown fabrics! -- half-fill your bathtub with lukewarm water and a small amount of Orvus paste or other gentle cleaning agent, such as baking soda or Johnson’s baby shampoo.  Use the regular yellow shampoo, not the new gel.  (I no longer recommend Ivory Clear Liquid, as the formula has been changed and it is now too harsh for delicate fabrics.)  Use half an ounce to a gallon of water.  If your water is hard, use distilled or soft water. Be certain the cleaning agent is completely dissolved before putting in your quilt.

Make a “cradle” from an old sheet.  Fold the quilt accordion-style into the “cradle” and gently lower it into the bathtub, carefully moving the water through the quilt, and let it soak. Drain the water and press the quilt gently against the side of the tub to remove as much water as possible. Refill the tub and rinse the quilt. You may need to rinse several times to remove all cleaning agent residue.

Gently press quilt against the side of the tub to remove as much water as possible. Lift it out of the tub and place it on toweling, rolling gently to remove as much water as possible.  Carry it out into the yard and place it flat on a clean sheet on the grass, in the shade. (It can also be put on a deck, if you make certain the quilt is not touching the wood.) Lay the quilt out flat, straighten it and cover with another clean sheet, and let dry. You may need to turn the quilt a few times as it dries.  Be certain the quilt is completely dry before storing it.  You can place an electric fan above the quilt that will circulate the air and help it to dry faster, but don’t aim the fan directly on the quilt.

If you have other questions regarding care of your quilts, just call me.